Finding a solid skincare routine when you have rosacea can feel Sisyphean.
So we tapped board-certified cosmetic, medical, and surgical dermatologist Blair Murphy-Rose, M.D., FAAD, to help us break down the basics of this condition.
What is rosacea?
“Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin condition that results in facial redness, flushing, and visible blood vessels, sometimes accompanied by acne-like bumps,” Dr. Blair says.
She adds that it is very common, with an estimated 14 million people in the U.S. affected by it.
What does rosacea look like?
“Rosacea may appear similar to other skin conditions, including the malar rash of lupus or seborrheic dermatitis of the face,” Dr. Blair shares. “It is always a good idea to see a board-certified dermatologist for an evaluation. Rosacea most commonly affects the cheeks, nose, central lower forehead and chin,” she says.
There are a few different types of rosacea:
- Erythematotelangiectatic rosacea: This is the most common type of rosacea, characterized by facial redness and dilated blood vessels. “These patients are often flushers and blushers,” Dr. Blair says.
- Papulopustular rosacea: This type may look like acne at first, “with redness, swelling, and acne-like breakouts.”
- Phymatous rosacea: This type “causes thickening of skin and, classically, an enlargement of the nose with thickened pores,” she says.
- Ocular rosacea: “This is characterized by eye redness and irritation, often with dilated blood vessels,” Dr. Blair states.
What causes and/or triggers rosacea?
The exact cause of rosacea is unknown, but there is believed to be a genetic component, and it is associated with many environmental triggers, including UV exposure. Other common triggers include: temperature extremes (very hot or very cold), alcohol (especially red wine), spicy foods, and chocolate.
Rosacea Skincare Tips
1. Use mineral sunscreen.
Because UV exposure is believed to be a common rosacea trigger, “sun protection is a key part of rosacea treatment,” Dr. Blair says. “I recommend using a mineral sunscreen containing zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide for the best protection. Mineral sunscreens act as a physical shield between your skin and the sun.”
2. Always do a patch test.
Choose a small area of skin to see if a product will cause you irritation before putting it all over your face. Any itching, burning, redness, etc. is a no-go!
3. Gentle (like, super-duper gentle) exfoliation is key.
Skip the scrubs, and use a gentle, leave-on chemical exfoliant instead. Azelaic acid has been shown to help reduce symptoms of papulopustular rosacea.
4. Massage your skin when you apply your products.
Make sure to gently massage your skin when you apply your products to help improve circulation.
5. Avoid abrasive products and irritating ingredients.
Dr. Blair specifically calls out harsh scrubs, but there are lots of potentially triggering ingredients out there. Surveys from The National Rosacea Society have found that some of the most common ingredient triggers are:
- Alcohol
- Witch hazel
- Fragrance
- Menthol
- Peppermint
- Eucalyptus oil
6. Look for products that are specifically made for sensitive skin or rosacea.
Also, look for skin barrier-repairing products (obvs, check the labels for irritants).